Updated: 2008.04.08
New Method Learned: Lather Building Directly on Face
Applies to both soap and creams.
1) Soak the brush in warm, not hot, water until ready to shave.
2) While the brush is soaking, soften up the top of the soap with 1/2 tsp of warm water. Not required for creams.
3) Drain brush of most excess water giving it a couple of good shakes.
4) Charge brush with soap or stick a snurdle (almond size) of cream into the middle of the brush.
5) Wet the beard and then start apply the brush to the beard. It's gong to be a little dry. Add dribbles of hot water to the breech of the brush and keep swirling the brush on your face until you get the lather consistency you want.
6) Shave as normal. Note that you have no wasted soap or cream and you can see the consistency of the lather on your face. The drawback is if you over hydrate the lather in the beginning. Tougher to recover from since you have to add more cream or soap to the brush and try again.
Bowl Method:
Here is one tried an true method I use for making lather
For Soaps:
1) Soak the brush in warm, not hot, water until ready to shave.
2) While the brush is soaking, soften up the top of the soap with 1/2 tsp of warm water.
3) Drain brush of most excess water giving it one good shake.
4) Charge brush with soap.
5) Start making lather in bowl or mug with a light swirling and pumping motion.
6) Add drops of warm water as needed to the brush
breech until lather starts to explode.
If I'm having trouble getting enough lather, I need enough lather for a pre shave lather plus 3 passes, I will gently scrape or squeeze the soap out of the brush into the bowl, wet the tips of the brush, recharge the brush with soap and then proceed to make lather as before.
For Creams:
1) Soak the brush in warm, not hot, water until ready to shave.
2) Drain brush of most excess water giving it one good shake.
3) Put about a 1 tsp of cream into the lather bowl or mug. I don't skimp or believe in who can make most lather from the least amount contests. The reason is I do a pre shave lather routine plus 3 passes. That requires a lot of lather. So, if I find I don't have enough lather to do that, I may add more cream.
4) Start making lather and add drops of water as needed to the brush
breech until lather starts to explode.
I find creams are much easier to make lather with and easier to fix if there is a problem. Also, if I'm using a big silvertip brush that likes to soak up water and lather then some cream can be inserted into the middle of the breech to load up the brush faster.
Notes:
These techniques have never failed me yet and took many tries to perfect. I might make a lather a little thinner if I'm using a straight to increase slickness and glide over cushion. I can compensate for cushion by using less pressure but a big blade that doesn't glide is asking for trouble. Soaps more than creams can be a problem maintaining lather stabilization. The lather will fade on the face too quick or break down in the bowl. You can add a few drops of 100% glycerin to the lather mix to to help stabilize it. If you find that the lather is drying out on your face because you are taking too much time, hand smooth a little water to your face lather rather than adding more soap/cream. You might find shaving your face in sections like waxing a car is helpful too.
