Tuesday, April 22, 2008
Shave of the Day Explanation
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Making Cologne
Found this on the web. I do not know who to credit it to. If you do, please let me know.
Aromatic blending for the sheer pleasure of the aroma is a combination of creativity and science. When using a blend created primarily for its fragrance, therapeutic benefit can also occur. The focus of the blend, however, is on the final aroma, not its therapeutic properties.
Safety precautions should be followed for any type of blending, including for aromatic blending. For instance, you would still want to be extremely careful when using Bergamot because of its phototoxic properties and still avoid using all hazardous oils and all oils that are contraindicated for conditions that you have.
Traditional perfumers that work for the famous fragrance houses study for years to master the art and science of perfumery blending. The perfumer's standard repertoire consists of essential oils but also of synthesized chemicals that mimic the constituents (chemicals) of essential oils and other natural ingredients. Perfumers use synthesized chemicals and chemicals extracted from essential oils because they are often cheaper than using pure essential oils and because the chemicals are standardized and will be more consistent in aroma. If you can find a copy, The Science and Art of Perfumery by Edward Sagarin (copyright 1945) is a fascinating book that provides insight into the history and science of perfumery.
In aromatherapy blending, only natural ingredients such as essential oils, absolutes, CO2s, grain alcohol, carrier oils, herbs and water are used. Because aromatherapy blending requires and benefits from the use of unsynthesized chemicals, you shouldn't have high expectations for perfectly duplicating your favorite commercial fragrances.
Blending Basics
Essential oils can be categorized into broad groups based on their aromas. An example categorical system is as follows:
Floral
(i.e. Lavender, Neroli, Jasmine)
Woodsy
(i.e. Pine, Cedar)
Earthy
(i.e. Oakmoss, Vetiver, Patchouli)
Herbaceous
(i.e. Marjoram, Rosemary, Basil)
Minty
(i.e. Peppermint, Spearmint)
Medicinal/Camphorous
(i.e. Eucalyptus, Cajuput, Tea Tree)
Spicy
(i.e. Nutmeg, Clove, Cinnamon)
Oriental
(i.e. Ginger, Patchouli)
Citrus
(i.e. Orange, Lemon, Lime)
Oils in the same category generally blend well together. I hesitate specifying that particular categories blend well with other specific categories because it can limit your creativity and experimentation. Additionally, there are always exceptions. But to get you started, below are some categories that generally blend well together:
Florals blend well with spicy, citrusy and woodsy oils.
Woodsy oils generally blend well with all categories.
Spicy and oriental oils blend well with florals, oriental and citrus oils. Be careful not to overpower the blend with the spicy or oriental oils.
Minty oils blend well with citrus, woodsy, herbaceous and earthy oils.
Harmonizing Your Blend
Have you ever noticed that a fragrance smells differently after several hours than when you first apply it? Some essential oils evaporate more quickly than others. As the oils in a blend evaporate, the aroma will change to reflect the aroma of the remaining oils.
Using the analogy of a musical scale, oils that evaporate the quickest, usually within 1-2 hours, are called "top notes." Oils that evaporate with 2-4 hours are considered "middle notes." Oils that take the longest time to evaporate are referred to as "base notes." Some base notes can take several days to evaporate! Edward Sagarin credits Septimus Piesse with this analogy that has been used by many perfumers:
"Another contribution to the field of odor classification was made by the famous perfumer and perfume historian, Septimus Piesse. This unique figure in the history of the science created what he called an "odophone." the odors were like sounds, he pointed out, and a scale could be created going from the first or lowest note, the heavy smell to the last or highest note, the sharp smell. In between there was an ascending ladder. Each odor note corresponded to a key on his odophone, and in the creation of a happy mixture of many different odors, which we call a "bouquet" and which every finished perfume must be, the creator seeks not only to hit the right notes, but to strike those notes which go with one another. His perfume must not be out of tune." [Edward Sagarin, The Science and Art of Perfumery (New York, NY: McGraw-Hill, 1945), 145.]
Below is a chart of commonly available oils based on their common classification:
Top Notes
Anise
Basil
Bay Laurel
Bergamot
Bergamot Mint
Citronella
Eucalyptus
Galbanum
Grapefruit
Lavender
Lavendin
Lemon
Lemongrass
Lime
Orange
Peppermint
Petitgrain
Spearmint
Tagetes
Tangerine
Middle Notes
Bay
Bois-de-rose
Cajeput
Carrot Seed
Chamomile, German
Chamomile, Roman
Cinnamon
Clary Sage
Clove Bud
Cypress
Dill
Elemi
Fennel
Fir Needle
Geranium
Hyssop
Jasmine
Juniper Berry
Linden Blossom
Marjoram
Neroli
Nutmeg
Palmarosa
Parsley
Pepper, Black
Pine, Scotch
Rose
Rose Geranium
Rosemary
Rosewood
Spruce
Tea Tree, Common
Tea Tree, NZ (Manuka)
Thyme
Tobacco
Yarrow
Ylang Ylang
Base Notes
Angelica Root
Balsam, Peru
Beeswax
Benzoin
Cedarwood, Atlas
Cedarwood, Virginian
Frankincense
Ginger
Helichrysum (Immortelle)
Myrrh
Oakmoss
Olibanum
Patchouli
Sandalwood
Vanilla
Vetiver
Blending does not have hard and fast rules that must be followed to create that wonderful blend that you'll love for a lifetime. The lack of limits and restrictions is what makes perfumery an art form. Having said that, a few tips will help get you off to a fine start:
Tips
When creating a new blend, start out small with a total number of drops of either 5, 10, 20 or 25 drops. 25 drops should be the most that you start with. By starting small, you waste less oil in your blending experiments.
Start creating your blend by only using essential oils, absolutes or CO2s. After you have designed the blend, then you can dilute it by adding carrier oils, alcohol, etc. If you hate the blend you created, you have then not wasted any carrier oils or alcohol.
Keep a notebook that lists each oil that you used with the number of drops used for each oil. When the creative juices flow, it is easy to get carried away and later forget the exact recipe for your blend; one drop too much or too little of even one oil can drastically change the aroma of your blend. When you find that perfect blend, you want to be able to reduplicate it, and it's near impossible if you didn't take notes! If you are especially ambitious, it's also a wise idea to note the vendor name of the oil that you used as the aroma and quality of oils do vary between vendors (even with the same vendor, the aroma of oils can vary from batch to batch, due to crop fluctuations and resourcing).
To store your beautiful creations, perfume sample bottles and 2ml amber "shortie" bottles are very inexpensive and can often be purchased from aromatherapy vendors and glass bottle companies.
Be sure to label your blends clearly. If you don't have enough room to specify exactly what your blend is, label it with a number that corresponds to a number in your notebook.
Start off your blending experiments by creating blends that are made up in the following ratio (you do not have to be exact - this is just a guideline to get you started): 30% of the oils are top notes, 50% are middle notes, and 20% are base notes. See the chart above to find out what oils belong to each category.
Some oils are much stronger than others, especially the absolutes and CO2s. Study oils you wish to use in a given blend and observe the oils that have the strongest aromas. Unless you want those oils to dominate the blend, you will want to use dramatically less of the stronger oils in your blend.
To learn more about the strength of oils, it is useful to try experiments where you add one drop of a selected essential oil to 5 drops carrier oil to get a 20% dilution, smell it, study the aroma, then add another 5 drops of carrier oil to get a 10% dilution, smell it and study the aroma again, then repeat as desired. This can help educate you on the characteristics and strengths of each essential oil at various dilution ratios.
After creating your blend, allow it to sit for a few days before deciding if you love or hate it. The constituents (natural chemicals) contained within the oils will get cozy with each other and the aroma can change, usually rounding out a bit.
Recipes
Carrier Oil Base Perfume
15-25 drops of your perfume blend
1 tablespoon of Jojoba carrier oil (sweet almond or apricot kernel carrier oil may be substituted)
Directions: Blend all oils together well and store in an airtight dark-colored glass container. Dab a drop onto your pulse points. Please note that this blend has a heavy concentration of essential oils and is meant to be used sparingly. As with any new oils and blends that you use, you must check all safety data for the oils in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using.
Alcohol/Water Base Perfume
4 1/4 teaspoons Vodka
1 1/2 teaspoons Distilled Water
60 drops of your perfume blend
Directions: Blend all ingredients well and store in an airtight 1 ounce dark-colored glass container. Let sit for two weeks, shaking the bottle 1-3 times daily (more often is better) to mix the oils. After two weeks has passed, filter the perfume through a coffee filter and rebottle (using the same bottle is fine). As with any blends that you use, you must check all safety data for the oils in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using.
Cologne
4 1/2 teaspoons Vodka
2 teaspoons Distilled Water
30 drops of your perfume blend
Directions: Blend all ingredients well and store in an airtight 1 ounce dark-colored glass container. Let sit for two weeks, shaking the bottle 1-3 times daily (more often is better) to mix the oils. After two weeks has passed, filter the cologne through a coffee filter and rebottle into a one-ounce, fine-mist sprayer bottle. As with any blends that you use, you must check all safety data for the oils in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using. This makes only a one-ounce quantity so that you can try your cologne to see if you like it or want any changes to it before making a larger quantity.
Body Splash
4 1/2 teaspoons Vodka
2 teaspoons Distilled Water
18 drops of your perfume blend
Directions: Blend all ingredients well and store in an airtight 1 ounce dark-colored glass container. Let sit for two weeks, shaking the bottle 1-3 times daily (more often is better) to mix the oils. After two weeks has passed, filter the body splash through a coffee filter and rebottle into a one-ounce, fine-mist sprayer bottle.. As with any blends that you use, you must check all safety data for the oils in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using. This makes only a one-ounce quantity so that you can "try" your body splash to see if you like it or want any changes to it before making a larger quantity.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Will It Clog My Pores?
| Low Clogging Probability | Medium Clogging Probability | High Clogging Probability | ||
| Almond Oil (Sweet Almond) | Corn Oil | Cocoa Butter | ||
| Anhydrous Lanolin | Cottonseed Oil | Coconut Oil | ||
| Apricot Kernal Oil | Crisco | Sodium Chloride (salt) | ||
| Avocado Oil | Glyceryl Stearate SE | Wheat Germ Oil | ||
| Beeswax | Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil | |||
| Bentonite Clay | Mink Oil | |||
| Candelilla Wax | Soybean Oil | |||
| Castor Oil | Sulfonated Castor Oil | |||
| Cetearyl Alcohol | ||||
| Emulsifying Wax NF Emu Oil | ||||
| Evening Primrose Oil | ||||
| Glycerin | ||||
| Hydroxypropyl Cellulose | ||||
| Jojoba | ||||
| Kaolin Clay | ||||
| Olive Oil | ||||
| Peanut Oil | ||||
| Polysorbate 20 and 80 | ||||
| Safflower Oil | ||||
| Sesame Oil | ||||
| Stearic Acid | ||||
| Sunflower Oil | ||||
| Tocopherol | ||||
| Aloe Vera (cold pressed) |
Friday, February 1, 2008
Soap Definitions
Hot Process Soap (HP):
Adding an additional heat source to shorten the cure time on soaps.
Cold Process Soap (CP):
Relies on the release of heat from lye to make the soap. Needs 3-6 weeks of cure time.
Melt & Pour Soap (M&P):
Ready made soap. Just remelt and add scents or other ingredients and pour into molds. Glycerin based.
Milled Soaps:
Single or Triple Milled just means how many times it went through the roller process. Glycerin is extracted from the soap and the resulting dense soap is powdered, put into a hopper with scents and colorants and rolled between steel rollers. It's then pressure extruded into molds and set to cure. Lasts a long time but the glycerin is missing.
Soap Bases:
Glycerin
Tallow (Animal Fat)
Vegetable Fat (Olive Oil, etc.)
Lanolin
Milk (Goat, Cow, etc) in Lye Solution
These are just a number of different ways to make soap. I tend to like the Cold Process Glycerin and Tallow based soaps and also the high end milled soaps.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Common Acronymns I Use
ACD-N = Feather Artist Club DX Japanese Style Non-Folding Razor ACD-N
ATG = Against the grain whisker shaving growth pattern. Not for people new to wet shaving. Toughest direction to shave and easiest to not get right.
BBS = Baby butt smooth. It means you did it right and got a close shave with no nicks, cuts, weepers, shave bumps or in grown hairs. Chances are though you probably got a little irritation since it's so hard to achieve perfect BBS. I'm not that perfect.
IMHO = In My Humble Opinion. My personal experienced opinion . Not yours, not somebody else's. Usually works closely with YMMV.
SWMBO = She who must be obeyed or any other significant other for that matter.
WTG = With the grain whisker growth shaving pattern. The easiest shaving direction to use and best for just starting out.
XTG = Across the grain. In between WTG and ATG. Next step up from WTG on your path to ATG achievment. There is also 45XTG. This is halfway between WTG and XTG or 45 degrees to the grain versus ATG which is 90 degrees to the grain. I prefer to use this technique instead of ATG.
YMMV = Your mileage may vary. All products and techniques are subject to how they work for you personally. Each person is different and chances are your results will be different.
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Straight Razor Manufacturers (Partial List)
Straight Razor Manufacturers and Dates of Operation(Partial List)Unless noted, this information comes from:
Trademarks on Base-Metal Tableware (1991) By Eileen Woodhead. Published by Parks Canada, Ottawa.
ACHARLES ADAMS & CO.36 Front Street, Rochester, NY. ca. 1889 - 1957 AKERS BRITTON CO. JOHN ALBRIGHT JOSEPH ALLEN & SONS ADOLPHE ARBENZ AMERICAN KNIFE CO. AMERICAN PRODUCTS CO. ARROWHEAD TRADING CO. AUTOMATIC UTILITIES CO.
BJOSEPH BADGER & SONSNew Haven, Connecticut ca. 1860-1861 BAKALAR JOHN BAKER & CO. A.F. BANNISTER & CO I. & J. BARBER BARBER, JOHN FREDERICK BARNES & CO. BARNSLEY BROS. USA J.H. BECKER BECKHER-OTTO INC. BELKNAP HARDWARE CO. FRED BELT BENGALL GEORGE BENNETT & CO. HENRY BERKELE BINGHAMPTON CUTLERY CO. WILLIAM AND JOHN BIRKS BISON MFG. CO. BLUE GRASS BLUE RIBBON JOHN REDMAN BOYD BRAMMALL (BRAMHALL), JOHN M.L. BRANDT CUTLERY CO. BRESDUCK INC. BRIGGS BRITTAIN, WILKINSON & BROWNELL BROCH & THIEBES CUTLERY CO. BROOKES & CROOKES BROWN RAZOR CO. BROWN BROS RAZOR CO. BUCK BROS. BUFFALO RAZOR & GRINDING CO. BURKINSHAW, AARON BURRELL CUTLERY CO. BUTCHER, BROWN & BUTCHER WILLIAM & SAMUEL BUTCHER GEORGE BUTLER & CO
CCHARLES CADMAN & SONSCanal Works, Sheffield In business in 1892 THOMAS RADLEY CADMAN & SONS CHARLES CAMMELL & CO LTD CAMMELL, LAIRD & CO LTD CHALLENGE RAZOR WORKS CHARLTON BROS. CHINSCRAPER C.F. CIAMPA MANUFACTURERS CLARK BLADE & RAZOR CO CLARK & HALL F.A. CLAUBERG & CO. HENRIE CLAUSS CLAUSS CLYDE STEEL WORKS JOHN COE & CO COLLEY & CO COLUMBIA CUTLERY CO. CONGREVE, CHARLES CONTINENTAL CUTLERY CO COOPER BROS & SONS LTD JOHN COPLEY & SONS ALEXANDER COPPEL CUTLERY CO HENRY COWLISHAW CRANDALL CUTLERY CO CRANFORD RAZOR WORKS CRATER RAZOR SALES, INC. CRATER RAZOR COMPANY G.F. CREUTZBERG JONATHAN CROOKES & SON CRUSADER Trademark of Belknap Hardware Co. A.J. CURTISS
DDARWIN FITZWILLIAM WORKSTinsley, Sheffield, England ca. 1928-1953 DEBOER & BACH DEPEW DERBY RAZOR COMPANY DIAMOND EDGE DIAMOND SPEAR FRED DOLLE DOMINION CUTLERY CO. S.R. DROESCHER DROESCHER AND BEHAR DURHAM DUPLEX
EEDLIS BARBER SUPPLY116 Smithfield Street, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania ca. 1893-1922 EHLE & HAGEMANN P. EISEMAN ELECTRIC ELGIN-AMERICAN MANUFACTURING CO. SALIM ELIAS SALIM ELIAS & T. ABDOO THOMAS ELLIN & CO ELLIOT, JOSEPH JOSEPH ELLIOTT (ELIOT) & SONS WM. ELLIOT & CO. EMPIRE RAZOR Mark used by the Empire Knife Company ENGLESWERK JOHN ENGSTROM ESKILSTUNA JOHN ENGSTROM, JR. C. FRIEDR. ERN & CO. EVERMOIST RAZOR CO. EXCELSIOR CUTLERY CO. EYE WITNESS (EYEWITNESS) WORKS BJ EYRE & CO
FFENNEY, FREDERICKSheffield 1824 - 1852 ("Old Sheffield Razors" by Lummus. Antiques, December 1922 p.261-267) JOSEPH FENTON & SONS FERRIERI'S FRENCH HONELESS RAZOR ALFRED FIELD & CO HARRY FISHER FLAGG CUTLERY FOERY & BAUER FORD & MEDLEY GEORGE FORZLEY & CO. ca. 1896 FRIEDMAN (FRIEDMANN) & LAUTERJUNG
GGEM CUTLERY CO.34 Reade St., New York City ca. 1903-1907; later became the Gem Safety Razor Co. GENEVA CUTLERY CO. GERMANIA CULTERY WORKS WM. GILCHRIST GOLDEN RULE CUTLERY CO. (G.R.C.) A. GRAEF CHARLES G. GRAH GREAVES, WILLIAM WILLIAM GREAVES WILLIAM GREAVES AND SONS GREAVES, W & SONS GREIST MANUFACTURING COMPANY GRIFFIN CUTLERY WORKS
HHAHN, PH.Importer, New York City. Specialized in German razors ca. 1881-1889 HALE BROTHERS HALL, JONATHAN HAMBLETON, W.B. SAMUEL HANCOCK & SONS THOMAS HANOVER THOMAS HARDY & SONS HARRINGTON, HENRY HARRIS BROS. HARRISON BROS. & HOWSON HATEM, NAHOUM HAWCROFT & PEARSON JOSEPH HAYWOOD & CO JA HENCKELS HERBRAND HIBBARD, SPENCER, BARTLETT & CO HM & CO HENRY HOBSON & SON HOBSON, HOUGHTON & CO LTD JONATHAN HOBSON HOLTZ, JACOB HOME RUN RAZOR HONELESS RAZOR & CUTLERY CO. HOOSIER RAZOR W & S HORRABIN R. HOVENDEN (HOVENDER) & SONS HOWELL & CO LTD WR HUMPHREYS & CO HUNOLD HUNT, JONATHAN MICHAEL HUNTER & SONS HUSTLER W & H HUTCHINSON (HUTCHENSON)
IIXLGEORGE WOSTENHOLM & SON Rockingham Works ca. 1694 - 1847 Washington Works, Sheffield ca. 1847 - at least 1991 IBBOTSON, PEACE & CO IMPERIAL KNIFE ASSOCIATED COMPANIES IMPERIAL RAZOR INTERNATIONAL RAZOR CO. IVORY SAFETY RAZOR COMPANY
JJACKSON KNIFE & SHEAR CO.Took over business of Sprague Cutlery Co of Buchanan, Michigan In 1907, became Jackson Shear & Razor Co.; In 1908 became Jackson Shear Co. By 1920, only shears made. Fremont, Ohio c. 1893 - 1904 PW JACKSON & CO WILLIAM JACKSON & CO JAEGER SUPPLY CO. CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON & CO GEORGE JOHNSON & CO JOHNSON, JAMES JOHNSON WESTERN WORKS JEAN JORDEAU INC. M. JUNG M. JUNG RAZOR CORP. NASIB JUREIDINI SAID KHALIL JUREIDINI AR JUSTICE (JUSTUS) CO
KKAMPFE BROS.ca. 1880 - 1915 In 1915, this firm changed their name to the Star Safety Razor Corporation FRANK KAPPLER A. KASTOR & BROS STANLEY M. KATTELL KEENOH HENRY KEIDEL & CO. P. KHOURI FRED W. KIEFER CO. KING RAZOR MFG. CO. WILLIAM J. KLAUBERG KLEEBLATT B.S. CO. KLEIN & KLEIN THEO A. KOCH KOKEN BARBER SUPPLY GEORGE W. KORN RAZOR MANUFACTURING CO. R. KORKEMAS & CO PAUL A. KRAUSE BARBER SUPPLY KRAUT & DOHNAL
LLAFAYETTE CUTLERY COTrademark used by Wiebusch & Hilger ca. 1909 - 1928 LANDERS, FRARY & CLARK WM. LANGBEIN & BROS. LAYMAN & CAREY CO. JAQUES LECOULTRE LEDEW LIBERTY BELL RAZORS LITT CUTLERY CO. LITTLE VALLEY KNIFE ASSOCIATION LOCKWOOD BROS LTD HG LONG & CO LUDO SHEAR & RAZOR WORKS
MMAHER & GROSHToledo, OH from 1875; moved to Clyde OH ca. 1963 c. 1875 - present MALHAMI & SON NAJEEB MALLUK MANHATTAN CUTLERY CO MANUFACTURERS DEALERS CO JOSEPH MAPPIN & BROTHERS MAPPIN BROS MAPPIN & WEBB CO MARATHON RAZOR BLADE CO. MARPLES & CO MARSDEN BROS & CO MARSDEN & BEETON MARCH BROS & CO MARSH & SHEPHERD MARSHES & SHEPHERD MATTHEWS & LIVELY JOHN McCLORY & SONS LTD HUGO MELCHIOR SUPPLY CO. METROPOLITAN MANUFACTURING CO PETER J. MICHELS MILLBURY RAZOR CO. WM. MORLEY & SONS E. MORRIS MFG. CO. JOHN MORTON & CO MOSHEY & RAHAIM
NNATIONAL RAZOR MANUFACTURING CO.Freemont, Ohio and Lisbon, Ohio ca. 1919 - 1923 NAYLOR & SANDERSON NAYLOR & SON ca. 1787 - 1795 CE NEEDHAM & BROS NEEDHAM, VEALL (VEAL) & TYZACK NEV-A-HONE RAZOR STROP CO. NEW ENGLAND RAZOR CO. NEW YORK RAZOR CO. FRANCIS NEWTON & SONS BENJAMIN NICHOLSON & SONS JOHN NICHOLSON & SONS WILLIAM & THOMAS NICHOLSON NILES RAZOR CO. T. NOONAN & SON NORRIS, SAMUEL NORTHFIELD CUTLERY CO. NORWICH CUTLERY CO. NOVELTY SALES COMPANY JOHN NOWILL (NOWELL) & SONS
OC & M OBENAUER213 Washington St., Binghamton, NY ca. 1895 - 1903 ONTARIO CUTLERY CO. OSGOOD, BRAY & CO OWL
PPAL CUTLERY CO.ca. 1945 - 1953 PALAZZOLO PARKIN PARTON AND OSBORNE HANNAH PATTEN PEARLDUCK, INC PEERLESS CUTLERY CO. PELLAR-BAZELON A C PENN PENQUIN PERFECTION CUTLERY CO. JOHN PETTY AND SONS PHILADELPHIA BARBER SUPPLY CO CHARLES PICKSLAY & CO PIKE MANUFACTURING CO PINE KNOT C. PLATTS & SONS C. PLATTS' SONS PLATTS BROS JOHN HENRY POTTERY POUGHKEEPSIE CUTLERY WORKS PRESTON BROS. PRIBYL BROS. CELEBRATED CUTLERY M. PRICE PRIMA JOHN PRIMBLE
QQUALITY BARBER SUPPLY & CUTLERY CO1722 W. Roosevelt Rd., Chicago, Illinois ca. 1921
RJOHN & WILLIAM RAGGNursery Works, Eldon Street, Sheffield ca. 1825 - 1953 S. RAHAM RAHAIM & MALHAMI RANSOM & RANDOLPH RAZORINE MANUFACTURING CO RED POINT REICHARD & SCHEUBER MFG CO F. ALFRED REICHARDT REINHARD - DINKELMANN & CO REX RAZOR CO. INC. FREDERICK REYNOLDS DANIEL H. RIDER ROBERTS, SMITH & CO ROBESON CUTLERY WORKS JOSEPH RODGERS (ROGERS) & SONS WILLIAM A. ROGERS, LTD WILLIAM ROGERS, JR WILLIAM ROGERS MANUFACTURING CO. WILLIAM G. ROGERS WILLIAM H. ROGERS WILLIAM H. ROGERS CORP. ROLKA & KLEIN ROSTFREI JOHN RUSSELL CUTLERY CO.
SSAMSTAG & HILDER BROS1200 Broadway, New York City ca. 1921 - 1922 E E SCHAAF BARBER SUPPLY J M SCHMID & SON HENRY SEARS & CO H. SEARS MFG HENRY SEARS & SON SEARS, ROEBUCK SEEBOHM (SEEBAHM) & DIECKSTAHL K C SEELBACH JOHN SELLERS & SONS SENECA RAZOR & MFG CO A. SHAHEEN & CO JOHN SHAW & SONS SHEFFIELD FLATWARE CO. LTD SHEFFIELD INDUSTRIAL & PROVIDENT CUTLERY TRADING CO SHEFFIELD MFG CORP SHEFFIELD SAFETY SHAVER CO. SHEFFIELD SCISSOR, RAZOR & TOOL CO J. SHEPHARD SHEPHERD, JOHN SHERMAN CUTLERY CO. SHUMATE RAZOR CO SHUMATE CUTLERY CO SIMMONS HARDWARE CO SLACK & GRINOLD SLATER BROS GEORGE SMITH & SONS H H SMITH CO J SMITH & SON SMITH BROTHERS SOUTH BEND CUTLERY CO SOUTHERN & RICHARDSON A. SPAGNA & L CLINCO SPERRY & ALEXANDER STACEY BROS STANDARD RAZOR CO STANDART BROS WILLIAM STANIFORTH (STANIFARTH) WILLIAM THOMAS STANIFORTH (STANIFARTH) STANIFORTH, PARKIN & CO W. STENTON & SON R S STENTON B. STRAUSS COMPANY STRUTH & CLOTTU SWEDISH RAZOR CO SWEDISH STEEL FORGING CO SYRACUSE CUTLERY CO
TC J TAGLIABUE53 Fulton St., New York City ca. 1906 - 1907 GEORGE H TAYLOR & BROTHER L M TAYLOR TAYLOR BROS TAYLOR BROS CUTLERY CO TAYLOR WITNESS THOMAS TURNER & CO THOMPSON RAZOR & CUTLERY CO TIDIOUTE CUTLERY CO TIDIOUTE RAZOR CO TIPTON CUTLERY CO J S TORRENCE TORREY RAZOR CO TRENTON RAZOR CO JOSEPH TURNER TWENTY GRAND JOSEPH TYZACK & SON
UU J ULERY7 Warren St., New York City ca. 1902 - 1921 C F ULMER UNITED DRUG CO UNWIN & ROGERS (RODGERS) LTD. UTICA CUTLERY CO UTICA KNIFE & RAZOR CO
VVAN CAMP HARDWARE & IRON COIndianapolis, Indiana ca. 1888 - 1960 VOM CLEFF, R VONNEGUT HARDWARE CO ERNEST VOOS
WWADE, ROBERTSheffield 1810 - 1818 ("Old Sheffield Razors" by Lummus. Antiques, December 1922 p.261-267) WADE & BUTCHER WADE, WINGFIELD (WINFIELD) & ROWBOTHAM WILLIAM & SAMUEL BUTCHER WALKER & HALL SAMUEL WARBURTON WARBURTON, THOMAS WASHINGTON CUTLERY CO EDWARD WECK WHITE EAGLE CO WIEBUSCH & HILGER LTD WILBERT CUTLERY CO WILKINSON SWORD CO LTD H. WILKINSON WILLIAM WILSON & SON WILSON, HAWKESWORTH, ELLISON & CO JACOB WISS CUTLERY CO. J. WISS & SONS A. WITTE CUTLERY CO FRANCIS T WITTE HARDWARE CO CF WOLFERTZ CO WOLFERTZ & WALDMAN WOLFERTZ & CO GEORGE WOODHEAD & SON WOODWORTH KNIFE WORKS B WORTH & SON WOSTENHOLM, GEORGE GEORGE WOSTENHOLM & SON JOHN WRAGG
XYZYANKEE CUTLERY COTrademark of Reichard until 1933, then of American Safety Razor ca. 1903 - 1953 YOUNG SAFETY RAZOR CO
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Thursday, October 4, 2007
Gillette Date Code Reference
1903 No Serial Numbers 100* "Double Ring" handle thin cap/guard
1904 1-25424, 25425-45424 100* "Pat. appl. for" & "Pat. Nov. 15.04" (USA)
1905 45425-370424 100* "Pat. Mar.7.05" (Canada)
1906 370425-770424 100*/102 June 06: Single ring handle introduced
1907 770425-A195424 102
1908 A195425-A675857 102 "Diamond & Arrow" Logo. Pocket Edition with solid fancy handles & matching cases.
1909 A675858-B222220 102
1910 B222221-B697600 102 Aristocrat Model introduced.
1911 B697601-C80508 102
1912 C80509-C260238 102
1913 C260239-C407806 102
1914 C407807-C578360 102 Bulldog handle intoduced.
1915 C578361-C911806 102 Milady Decollette short handle (long neck)
1916 C911807-D516474 102
1917 D516475-E449207 102 Hollow Handle Pocket Edition
1918 E449208-J7344 Plus F/G/H (no I) J Series all U.S. military 102 3.5 million razors produced for US forces in WWI
1919 J7345-K927216 J Series all U.S. military 102 Big Fellow introduced.
1920 K927217-N459887 102
1921 N459887-P679777 102 102A: "Old Style" Thick cap/guard
1921 1A-863912A (USA), V=Spain, W=France, Y=Britain, Z=Canada 102A/106 106: New Improved / heavy flat guard
1922 863913A-336676B 102A/106 Old Style still seen with no serial #
1923 336677B-391575B 102A/106
1924 391576B-485927B 102A/106
1925 485928B-602049B 102A/106
1926 602050B-770070B 102A/106
1927 770071B-902611B, Serial No.'s end Oct. 17 102A/106
1928 Serial No.s start Aug. 28 1C-94800C 102A/106/126 126= Mod. 106 /narrow shoulders
1929 94801C-241755C 102A/126/134 Model 134 "long slot" test marketed
1930 A 1/2/3/4 (Letter=year, number=quarter of year). Only DeLuxe models were serial #'d, starting 1-D 134 134: New Gillette (takes slotted blade)
1931 B 134/148/154/160/162/164/170/175 148/154:short bar/two bar caps. 160/2/4/70/5: "Goodwill" types. Handles: ball end and new bar end.
1932 C 134/160 160: Standard Goodwill/solid cap
1933 D 134/160
1934 E 134/160/TTO Aristocrat One-Piece TTO with Bulldog handle & comb guard. (TTO=Twist To Open )
1935 F 134/160/TTO
1936 G 134/TTO
1937 H 134/TTO Sheraton TTO (gold, regular handle)
1938 I 134/TTO Senator TTO , nickel vs gold)
1939 J 134/TTO/Tech Tech intro'd with triangle guard slots.
1940 K 134/TTO/Tech Regent Tech TTO (last comb guard)
1941 L 134/TTO/Tech Milord TTO (bar guard version of Sheraton)
1942 M Tech War production only
1943 N Tech War production only
1944 O Tech War production only
1945 P Tech War production mostly
1946 R TTO/Tech Full civilian production resumes.
1947 S TTO/Tech "SuperSpeed" replaces Senator. "Rocket" in Canada and UK.
1948 T TTO/Tech "Improved" TTO's notched for blade dispenser
1949 U TTO/Tech First plastic case: red/ clear styrene.
1950 V TTO/Tech
1951 W 1/2/3/4. (Yr. letter code plus quarter f year) TTO/Tech Razors get date codes (year & 1/4)
1952 X TTO/Tech Tech gets parallel slots
1953 Y TTO/Tech Executive: heavy gold handle
1954 Z TTO/Tech Coloured TTO knobs for blade angle.
1955 A TTO/Tech
1956 B TTO/Tech
1957 C TTO/Tech
1958 D TTO/Tech "Adjustable" Dial TTO. TV Special this year only
1959 E TTO/Tech Adjustable TTO: short thick handle
1960 F TTO/Tech Toggle Adjustable this year only
1961 G TTO/Tech
1962 H TTO/Tech
1963 I TTO/Tech Lady Gillette TTO. Men's Adjustable gets long thin handle.
1964 J TTO/Tech Tech notched guard ends
1965 K TTO/Tech/Techmatic "Techmatic" Band Blade Razor
1966 L TTO/Tech/Techmatic
1967 M TTO/Tech/Techmatic
1968 N TTO/Knack/Tech/Techmatic Knack (SlimTwist in UK & Canada) knob under head. "Orbiter 4000" electric Band razor
1969 O TTO/Knack/Tech/Techmatic TTO black handles (long and short), "Super Adjustable"
1970 P TTO/Knack/Tech
1971 R TTO/Knack/Tech/TracII "TracII" introduced
1972 S TTO/DE/Tech/TracII Knack becomes "Double Edge" (DE)?
1973 T TTO/DE/Tech/TracII TracII introduced as "GII" outside North America. Tech prod'n ends in US.
1974 U TTO/DE/TracII Super-Speed TTO production ends
1975 V DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable "Daisy" disposible for Ladies
1976 W DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable "Good News" disposible for men.
1977 X DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable "Atra" introduced
1978 Y DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable Atra for Women
1979 Z DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable
1980's A-J DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable "Swivel" disposible in 1980
1985 F DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable Trac II and Atra "Plus". Good News "Pivot Plus" and Daisy Plus disposibles.
1989 J DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable
1990's K-U DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable/Sensor "Sensor" for Men introduced in 1990
1992 M DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable/Sensor "Sensor" for Women
1993 N DE/TracII/Atra/Disposable/Sensor Sensor Excel
1998 T TracII/Atra/Disposable/Sensor/ Mach 3 "Mach 3" for Men introduced. DE production ends.
2000's V-E TracII/Atra/Disposable/Sensor/ Mach 3
2001 W TracII/Atra/Disposable/Sensor/ Mach 3 Venus for Women, Mach3 style razor. Mach3 "Cool Blue"
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Standard Shower & Shave Setup
Shower:
Shampoo
Conditioner
Face Wash
Bath Soap
Deodorant
Hair Tonic
Moisturizer (Optional)
Oral Care:
Floss
Toothbrush
Toothpaste
Mouth Wash
Shave:
Straight Razor/Strop or Feather ACD-N Razor w/Blades
DE Razor & Blades (Primary Razor if no str8 or ACD-N)
Brush
Shave Bowl (Optional. Lathering direct to face most of time.)
Shave Cream or Soap
Post Shave:
Styptic Pencil (Optional)
Alum Block (Optional)
After Shave Balm
After Shave Splash or Lotion
Aftershave Talc (Optional)
Cologne (Optional)
GoTo shave setup:
500 Progress Adjustable Double Edged Safety Razor Chrome
Feather Razor Blade
Custom 23mm Shavemac Brush
Crabtree & Evelyn Shave Cream or Soap